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BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)


BigJimnyMeet 2024

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Steel wheel advice sought

  • Stevie
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11 Oct 2018 21:42 #196678 by Stevie
Steel wheel advice sought was created by Stevie
Hello everyone,

A new member here. I currently own a Defender (for 13 years) and a Lotus Elise, and have just bought a 2008 Jimny. I get the impression Jimny owners are the same friendly bunch of enthusiasts as the aforementioned owners. I’ve only owned it a couple of weeks, but have already got stuck in and changed all the oils. Also, because the underside was already in very good condition, I'm working my way along the underside, treating any minor corrosion ,and painting, waxing or undersealing as I go. For anyone interested, I use Isoflex for undersealing. It is a liquid rubber (not bitumen) intended as a roofing product. It bonds very well to most surfaces, dries to a non-tacky finish, and essentially forms a protective rubber skin. It’s been on the Defender for 13 years and still looks like the day it was applied, and because it’s rubber, it does not dry out, crack or flake.

I intend to buy some steel wheels to replace the alloys (just prefer the look) and have found some that are 6.5 x 15 ET -10. By my calculations, that adds 2.5mm inwards and 22.5mm outwards compared to the standard 5.5” wheels. The 2.5mm inwards is not going to make any difference, but I wondered about the 22.5mm outwards. If I drop a plumb line down from the arch, I’m fairly sure it should stay within the wheel arch (might depend on tyres), and hence road legal. The second question is regarding the potential for death wobble. Unlike wheel spacers, using a wider wheel with a little negative offset keeps the face of the wheel against the hub, and so most of the weight is still in the same vertical plane – there is just another 22.5mm of rim protruding. Whereas spacers throw the whole weight of the wheel further out from the hubs, increasing unsprung weight, and giving potential suspension/steering wear problems.

So, does anyone have any thoughts on:

1. Will 6.5 x 15 ET -10 sit nicely within the wheel arch line? (30mm spacers, from what I’ve seen, seem protrude past the wheel arch)
2. Is the extra weight of a steel rim or the extra 22.5mm width likely to increase the chances of death wobble?

Many thanks,
Stevie

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11 Oct 2018 22:19 #196681 by yakuza
Replied by yakuza on topic Steel wheel advice sought
1. Should be OK and within using a 215 wide tire. Wider like 235 would come a bit out as it is just within on the original wheels.

2.should be ok. If they make a wobble you should first check the bearings and usual wobbly stuff...

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.

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11 Oct 2018 22:21 #196682 by yakuza
Replied by yakuza on topic Steel wheel advice sought
And a warm welcome! :)

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.

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  • Eskimo
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12 Oct 2018 21:11 #196721 by Eskimo
Replied by Eskimo on topic Steel wheel advice sought
If it helps I'm running 215/75 15 Hankook MTs on 7j 15 et0 steels and they are just level with the arches and passed the MOT in July with no issues



I should add no rubbing before or after the 2" lift was fitted either.
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12 Oct 2018 21:38 - 12 Oct 2018 21:39 #196723 by Max Headroom
Hello Stevie

...and welcome to the forums!
Interesting that you have a Lotus - I've a couple of friends one with an original Seven and another with an old Elite which seems to live up to the old cliche of 'Lots of trouble - usually serious' Hopefully your Elise behaves itself!
I always fancied a Lotus 11 myself, but instead own a 1930s MG and a 1970s Midget that I originally bought in 1980 when it was about 6 months old.

I'm not aware of Suzuki having any such cliche like Fiat and Ford ("Fix it again tomorrow" and "Fix or repair daily") so hopefully you will be alright with the Jimny :)


IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
Last edit: 12 Oct 2018 21:39 by Max Headroom.

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  • Stevie
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14 Oct 2018 13:10 #196757 by Stevie
Replied by Stevie on topic Steel wheel advice sought
Many thanks guys.

Eskimo, yours is a pre-facelift model and I believe 215/75 are okay on these. In another post, I read that trimming of the front bumper was required for the later model. At the moment, I have a Pro Comp 2" lift, so no problem, but (and I guess most might say, why) I am thinking of going back to a standard set up. Other than across a field or for picking up hay, I don't off-road, but the 4WD drive is useful in bad weather, especially as the lane and my driveway are very steep and inaccessible if we get snow. Even if I didn't need it for this, I'd still have bought the Jimny because I think they are straightforward, unpretentious, cool-looking vehicles that are big enough for most drivers needs - I can do a week's camping with tent, bedding, chairs, clothing cooking equipment etc.,in my Elise, so the Jimny is a luxury in comparison.

Max Headroom, I have a soft spot for the MGs of old and might consider something similar once I can no longer get into the Elise!

Right, off the look at doing the thermostat. The radiator warms up instantly, so it seems like the thermostat must be stuck open. Besides, after changing all the oils, I might as well do the coolant and brake fluid too.

Cheers,
Steve

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15 Oct 2018 23:15 - 15 Oct 2018 23:15 #196806 by Max Headroom

Stevie wrote:
Max Headroom, I have a soft spot for the MGs of old and might consider something similar once I can no longer get into the Elise!


Hah! Don't think they are any easier - my '79 Midget is positively arthritic to get out of - it was even when I was in my youthful 20's.
As for the 1930s J2 - with the hood up, its worse than the "modern" Midget....

...Take a look HERE


IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
Last edit: 15 Oct 2018 23:15 by Max Headroom.

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