BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
Click HERE for details
Suppliers/Dealers or anyone selling with a commercial view in mind CANNOT post here unless responding to a specific request of a member in a "wanted" post.
Suppliers include people "breaking for spares" on a regular basis, when purchasing spares members should ask a supplier what they contribute to the running of the forum particularly if contacted by a Private Message
Suppliers or Members who have contributed to the forum can be identifed by the logo.
Wax oil.
- Ruedeleglise
- Topic Author
- Visitor
-
Public
Attachment not found
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 8787
- Thank you received: 1754
- Points: 36113.00
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Ruedeleglise
- Topic Author
- Visitor
-
Public
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 8787
- Thank you received: 1754
- Points: 36113.00
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 4706
- Thank you received: 260
- Points: 495.00
Ruedeleglise wrote: What I would like an opinion on is the use of wax oil. I used some 40 years ago to inject it and thouroughly smother the underparts , nooks and crannies of my cars. What is recommended and your opinion now?
Attachment not found
Waxoyl all the way.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
I'm much more a fan of a proper paint and personally use Hamerite, topping up with fresh coats as required.
I'm not experienced with buzzweld but believe it to be better.
Cavities I believe are best treated in road cars with old engine oil, however, not on a car that will go through Fords or other water and leave a rainbow effect in its wake! Not good for ze fishes!
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- rappey
- Visitor
-
Public
Hammerite was the clear winner over fertan, rustoleum and a whole other range of anti rust products.. but a few years back they removed whatever hammerite had that made it so good (lowering voc content of paints) and now its not that great.. Never waste your time using red oxide, and oil based undercoat is better than red oxide.. I really dont know why anyone even bothers to make that crap !
Best on rusty steel is real red lead paint by a long way, but the hard bit is finding the stuff, and no it has never been banned...
Waxoyle is supposed to repair itself when a stone takes a chunk off by slowly flowing and resealing... any good? couldnt say !
what about basic black underseal? Great for painting on welds as it hides the appaling bodge job underneath..lol
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 4706
- Thank you received: 260
- Points: 495.00
rappey wrote: what about basic black underseal? Great for painting on welds as it hides the appaling bodge job underneath..lol
Yes for floor panel sections. rockers and the like I use the Hammerite underseal with added Waxoyl but on my Celerio, being a new car, I went with Tetroseal as it has a claim to have excellent sound deadening qualities which believe me the Celerio needed and I found to be very effective.There was just about no protection underneath and in key areas elsewhere so every little stone sounded like a marble in a biscuit tin. Suzuki should be ashamed of themselves. .
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 1748
- Thank you received: 328
- Points: 7066.00
Most important in my opinion is that the car is clean and dry when you put your favorite stuff under there. And also repeat the process and check for wear once every couple of years or so. Clean your car often and do this and it will last.
All carbon steel will sooner or later rust and return to the nature so it depends on the maintenance how long it will last.
linseed oil, lanolin, tectyl, dinitrol and so on, many products and most of them is ok.
On a new car i would use the thicker stuff, and on an older car more thin and penetrating products.
Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 8787
- Thank you received: 1754
- Points: 36113.00
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 1748
- Thank you received: 328
- Points: 7066.00
Lambert wrote: I have tonnes of the stuff. It's a bit raw and doesn't tend to appreciate being introduced to vehicles, but I do have lots of it.
Some do not like the smell of it..
Friend of mine built some extremely large speakers and found some info about sheep wool having the best sound dampening quality.
Filled the speakers with the white stuff. Ready built speakers for testing, and turned the volume up high with the woofers pumping air thru all the ports and channels inside the speakers.
After a while the room smelled just like a sheep farm. I like the smell as i grew up on a small sheep farm but my friend did not
Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.